Disarm 5e dnd The discretionary principle for disarming (DMG p271) is as follows. A creature in dnd can use a weapon attack to knock out a weapon or another object from a goal’s grasp. The attacker makes an attack roll contested by the target’s Strength (Athletics) test or Dexterity (Acrobatics) check. This is the blood tanking guide i compiled for my guild from various sources and then changed/added what was needed to fit in with moltens own peculiarities. Just though i would post this here so i.

Ever been exploring a dungeon only to be stopped by a locked door? Spot a tripwire along the floor of a dungeon only to be stumped about how to disarm it? Stuck in a jail cell for crimes you may have committed? In 5e, thieves’ tools are what you’re after—but how do you use them, and what else can they be used for?

Thieves’ tools are a small set of tools that any character in D&D can acquire and become proficient in (requiring 2000 hours or 250 days of training from a teacher, 1gp per day). They are primarily used for picking locks, arming/disarming/making traps, and each tool can be used creatively.

Want to know just how to get the most out of them? Let’s dive in.

What are Thieves’ Tools?

In the Player’s Handbook (PHB) (pg 154), they cost 25gp, weigh 1lb, and include the following:

• A small file
• A set of lock picks
• A small mirror mounted on a metal handle
• A set of narrow-bladed scissors
• A pair of pliers

Proficiency in thieves’ tools lets you add your proficiency bonus to any ability checks to disarm traps or open doors.

This appears to be straight-forward enough. Any character can buy and use thieves’ tools, and anyone proficient in them can add that bonus to the check, right? Well, maybe.

Earlier in the same chapter in the PHB (pg 152), there is a list of adventuring gear, including locks and manacles. In these items’ descriptions, it is specified that a creature proficient with thieves’ tools can pick the locks with a successful Dexterity check—the implication is you only need the proficiency, not the tools themselves.

Furthermore, the Dungeon Master’s Guide (DMG) (pg 103) dictates that you must have thieves’ tools and proficiency in their use to pick a locked door.

What Can You Do If You Lack Proficiency?

Can you still attempt to use them if you’re unskilled? And if so, what benefit would that give?

I have never picked a lock before. However, I have attempted to emulate the action heroes I’ve seen in movies by sticking some metal in a lock and moving it around some. Surprise: I didn’t get far.

As it turns out, picking a lock is not just sticking a piece of wire into a lock and fiddling around with it—you have to know what you’re doing, which is what proficiency represents in D&D.

Therefore, I would suggest ruling that one must be proficient in thieves’ tools to pick a lock.

I would not, however, suggest ruling the same for disarming traps. Most traps that are detailed in the DMG, the PHB, and Xanathar’s Guide to Everything(XGE) are simple setups that, if discovered, are obvious in how they work.

If the trap is complicated, a successful Intelligence (Investigation) check might be necessary, but you could get creative by using proficiency in a Tinker’s Tools or a relevant background to give advantage.

Therefore, if a character successfully discovers the trap, they should be able to disarm it using thieves’ tools without needing proficiency in them. If the creature does not have thieves’ tools, they can make the check with disadvantage using any edged weapon or tool.

Ultimately, this is a decision for your Dungeon Master (DM) to make. Ask them how they would decide these situations so that you know what to expect.

Proficiency with Thieves’ Tools

Proficiency with thieves’ tools can be gained in several ways. Keep in mind that thieves’ tools do not count as a type of artisan’s tools, as is the requirement for some class proficiencies. These classes, backgrounds, and other modes can get you proficiency:

• Artificer class
• Rogue class (Expertise gives double proficiency bonus)
• Criminal background
• Urchin background
• Urban Bounty Hunter background (Sword Coast Adventurer’s Guide)
• Skilled feat
• Training (PHB 187)

Using the customizable origin rules found in Tasha’s Cauldron of Everything (TCE)(pg 7-8), you can swap out certain proficiencies if they are a result of your race or subrace.

Thieves’ tools can be gained by swapping out proficiency with armor, a martial weapon, or a different tool. Tools, in this case, include anything in the table found on page 154 of the PHB.

To gain proficiency through training, you must have a willing teacher and spend 250 days, 8 hours a day (2000 hours in total) to train under them, and the standard rate is 1gp per day. Your DM may decide to tweak that up or down, depending on circumstances.

I allow teammates to teach each other their tool proficiencies during downtime, but every DM is different.

Expanded Usefulness

XGE gives additional benefits to being proficient in thieves’ tools. They are:

• History: Your knowledge of traps grants you insight when answering questions about locations that are renowned for their traps.
• Investigation and Perception: You gain additional insight when looking for traps because you have learned a variety of common signs that betray their presence.
• Set a trap: Just as you can disable traps, you can set them. As part of a short rest, you can create a trap using items you have on hand. The total of your check becomes the DC for someone else’s attempt to discover or disable the trap. The trap deals damage appropriate to the materials used in crafting it (such as poison or a weapon) or damage equal to half the total of your check, whichever the DM deems appropriate.

The first two abilities don’t specify how that extra insight benefits you. Your DM might rule that it means you have advantage on your checks to search for traps. As for setting and creating traps, the ruling is somewhat vague. Your DM can decide which ability score is relevant, though Dexterity seems the most relevant.

What Else Can I Use Thieves’ Tools For?

While thieves’ tools are primarily used for picking locks and disarming traps, there are other potential uses for them.

The File

The file included is small, so it might not be able to take down large objects, but consider using it to file through ropes, cut a piece of chain jewelry off someone, give someone a manicure, or mess up fine machinery. Sometimes it’s a matter of small force applied to a weak spot.

It could be used to weaken objects so that they are liable to break under pressure, such as a shoe’s heel, a chair’s leg, a chain – though these would all require time and might be better served if you had a saw. Still, it might be harder to detect these interventions.

The Mirror

The mirror could be used to fight a medusa, reflect light into someone’s eyes or at a vampire, signal at a distance (maybe with Morse code), and perform a bit of dentistry.

I recommend using it to help with stealth by examining under doors, through cracks, over walls, or around corners. Just think of all the uses if you have spells that allow you to target a spot “you can see within range.” One of my favorites is Create Bonfire to trigger a scene of pure confusion.

The Scissors

The scissors could be used to cut pieces of cloth, escape from being garroted, trim cuticles and nose hairs, or stab someone’s eye. Given their size, these are much more likely to be secreted on your person than daggers or other weapons should you run into trouble.

The Pliers

The pliers could be used for many means of unsavory things to a captured enemy, removing a gemstone from its place, bending wire, and even cracking nuts. If you specify at the start that they’re needle-nose pliers with wire-cutting function, then I’m sure you could find even more uses for them.

—

Extra uses of these tools are only limited by your creativity, but it’s only possible when you remember the specific tools included in the toolset.

Summary

Thieves’ tools are one of the most used tools in the game, and while they can be bought and sold by anyone, your DM might rule that you need to be proficient with them in order to use them.

• Proficiency with thieves’ tools is needed for lockpicking but not for disarming traps (but this is just my opinion, not Rules-as-Written (RAW)).
• Proficiency with thieves’ tools can be acquired through multiple classes, backgrounds, a feat, and the customizable origin in Tasha’s Cauldron of Everything (pg 7-8).
• Proficiency can also be gained by finding a willing teacher and spending 8 hours a day for 250 days (or 2000 hours broken up) for 1gp per day. I recommend letting teammates tutor each other, but bear in mind that they cannot share training for the same hours in parallel.
• You gain additional insight in looking for traps and knowing about them, as well as creating them with materials on-hand during a short rest. You can set them the same as you would do anything else outside of combat. In-combat, I suppose you could arm/set one as an action.
• Since thieves’ tools are a set of specific tools, you can use the individual tools to accomplish other tasks. They are particularly good for hiding on your person if your weapons are taken away from you, looking/casting spells around corners, and making mischief.

Overall, the main takeaway is that you can use the components of the kit as independent items, that you can gain some insight into things related to locks and traps, but also that you can make and set up traps yourself.

Now get out there and make some mischief!

Few things are more iconic than the image of someone charging into battle on horseback. Yet, 5e doesn’t have satisfying rules to make mounted combat a fun part of play. So I created these rules to provide thrilling options for mounted combat by players, while maintaining balance with existing rules and abilities. As with all rules, these are guidelines and the DM should do what is fun and fast, using what adds to the game, and ignore the rest.

Fit with Existing Rules

These rules work well with the existing Mounted Combat and other rules in the core books, and expand on them in a few key ways. First, it differentiates between rider training and different types of trained mounts. Second, it blends better with martial character options like Extra Attack, and adds additional options for bonding with a mount. Third, it provides a dynamic experience when working with and controlling mounts in combat. Together, these options can be used by any class to make mounts effective in the right circumstances.

Arcadia issue #1 released an excellent set of Mounted Combat rules also. Those rules are aimed toward monsters and action oriented combat, and are an excellent addition to any game. You’ll find some excellent options for mounted opponents and I recommend you check those out.

These rules focus on the players experience while mounted, to give a greater depth of options and more fun.

Rules in a Nutshell

1. Anyone can get from place to place on a gentle trained mount.
2. Untrained riders have disadvantage on most rolls while mounted.
3. Trained riders can control mount movement with an object interaction and have them take a dash, disengage, or dodge action.
4. Riding mounts are fast and light but may panic in combat, war mounts are hearty and aggressive.
5. Trained riders may be able to bond with mounts to do things like swap rolls or use a bonus action to allow the mount to attack.

Rider Training

Anyone can get from place to place on a trained mount in good conditions, but a trained rider is capable of some amazing exploits. Any character proficient in Animal Handling, land vehicles, or with any ability that works with being mounted is a trained rider.

Riders one size smaller than a mount have their melee reach measured from the edge of the mount. However, riders more than two categories smaller would need a special circumstance such as adequate reach to perform a melee attack.

Untrained riders suffer disadvantage on any attack roll and ability check when on a trained mounted. Additionally, they must use an action to control a trained mount to take the Dash, Disengage, or Dodge action. Otherwise, the mount acts independently as makes sense for its type.

Trained riders make ability checks and attacks normally when controlling a trained mounted. Also, in combat, the mount and rider share the same initiative count allowing the rider to act as a unit. Further, a trained rider who shows great care and spends adequate time may become bonded with a mount. This allows the bounded mount to use the riders ability modifier, saving throw bonus, or AC in place of their own or vice versa.

Riders must spend half their movement to mount a willing creature within 5 feet or to dismount. The movement cost to mount or dismount may be reduced to 5 feet with a successful DC 15 Dexterity (acrobatics) or Wisdom (Animal Handling) check. A failure means you either fail to mount and stop moving, or fall prone if dismounting.

Trained Mounts

A creature requires considerable training to serve as an effective mount. This training familiarizes them enough to follow common commands and directions. While more advanced training may produce mounts with great skill to work with riders in battle. Note the type of training in the creatures stat block.

Riding mounts are trained to skillfully move and maneuver under the command of a trained rider. They will not willingly move toward danger and require a DC 12 Wisdom (Animal Handling) check by a rider to force them to do so. A sudden surprise, nearby combat, or attack may cause a riding mount to panic. If the mount panics, the rider must make a DC 12 Wisdom (Animal Handling) check or the animal will bolt. Intelligent mounts are not subject to panic and behave normally as a creature of its type and personality.

War mounts are specially selected and trained to be hearty and aggressive in combat. They begin with a hostile attitude toward most creatures, including a new rider. In fact, they will attempt to buck any rider they are not at least indifferent toward. However, their nature makes them well suited for fighting and they are not panicked by attacks, combat, or when surprised. Additionally, they will freely move toward danger under control of rider.

Controlling a Mount

Mounts may either act on their own, or a trained rider may use their object interaction ability to control them. The initiative of a controlled mount changes to match the rider. Once controlled, the rider and mount work as a unit. This means the rider uses the mounts movement in place of their own. Additionally, the rider in control may direct the mount to take a dash, dodge, or disengage action. Bonding with a mount offers riders in control additional abilities as listed below.

A character may draw or sheath a weapon as a free action as part of the object interaction required to control a mount.

Summoned & Companion Mounts

Consider any mount summoned with Find Steed or Find Greater Steed a war mount bounded to the character that summoned it. Mounts created with Phantom Steed follow the rules of a bounded riding mount but are not subject to panic.

Animal companions used as mounts follow their normal rules where appropriate, are considered bonded war mounts for purposes control and abilities while mounted.

Bonded Mounts

Forming a bond with a mount requires effort to establish and maintain on the part of the rider. Following a process similar to social interactions in Chapter 8 of the DMG, a mount has a particular attitude toward the rider based on how it’s been treated. Untrained mounts and War Mounts usually start with hostile attitudes, riding mounts start as indifferent. Typically, after each full day of riding or training with a mount, the rider may make a DC 10 Wisdom (Animal Handling) check. This roll is made with disadvantage if stressed or in combat combat during that period. A success means the mounts attitude improves by one category.

Once a mount is friendly, the rider may designate the mount as bonded. A rider and mount may only have one bond at a time. The DM may call for the bond to end after extended separations, or other circumstances like hard treatment or conditions.

Bounded mounts that are integrated strongly into play may use the sidekick rules from Taha’s Caldron of Everything if approved by the DM. Doing so uses the sidekick Warrior rules in most cases.

A trained rider controlling a bonded war or riding mount may use their reaction to swap an ability check, saving throw, or AC. Meaning the mount or the rider may use the ability check, saving throw, or AC of the other. This effect lasts until the beginning of the riders next turn, or until the rider dismounts or is unseated.

A trained rider controlling a bonded war mount may use their bonus action to allow the mount to use any action in their stat block, including an attack.

Bolting & Bucking

In some circumstances, a mount may have cause to flee a situation and bolt. This means the mount is uncontrolled and uses its action to move away from the source of its fear. Normally, a mount will use the dash action but may opt for dodge or disengage as is appropriate for the creatures intelligence and situation. During this, a rider may attempt a DC 15 Wisdom (Animal Handling) check as an action, to regain control of the mount. While running, or after a rider fails to regain control, a mount may also attempt to buck the rider as an action.

A mount that tries to buck its rider makes a strength check, opposed by the riders Strength or Dexterity (Animal Handling) check. If the rider fails the check, they are unseated.

Unseating a Rider

5e Dmg Optional Disarm Rules

Riders are knocked off a mount if some effect separates them, such as a successful shove. Additionally a rider that is knocked prone is also knocked off their mount. If an effect moves a mount against its will, any rider must make a Dexterity (Animal Handling) check either at the DC for the effect that moved the mount or 10, whichever is higher.

A rider knocked off a mount takes falls prone in a logical spot next to the mount. Additionally they may suffer other appropriate effects depending on the circumstance, such as falling off a tall or flying mount. In addition to any other effects, a rider knocked off a moving mount makes a DC 12 Dexterity saving throw. On a failed save they take 1d6 damage, or 2d6 if the mount was dashing, or half as much on a successful save.

Equipment

5e Dmg Optional Disarm Rule

Most mounts require some sort of bridle and saddle to control properly. In most cases, any rolls to control a mount or avoid being unseated are made with disadvantage without the proper equipment. The core books list a number of options for saddles, all of which work well with these rules.